Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu 2020

Winery Background and History

Founded in 1865, Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a prestigious estate located in Meursault, Burgundy. Renowned for producing some of the finest white wines in the region, the domaine also crafts exceptional red wines from its holdings in Volnay and Monthélie. Under the stewardship of Dominique Lafon since 1983, the estate has embraced biodynamic viticulture and meticulous winemaking practices, solidifying its reputation for excellence across both white and red Burgundy wines.

Producer and Winemaker

Dominique Lafon, a visionary winemaker, has been instrumental in elevating the estate’s standing in Burgundy. His commitment to biodynamic farming and minimal intervention in the cellar allows the unique terroirs of each vineyard to shine through. In recent years, Dominique has been joined by his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre, ensuring the continuation of the family’s dedication to producing wines of purity, elegance, and depth.

Vineyards and Micro Climate

The Santenots-du-Milieu vineyard, classified as Premier Cru, is situated in the commune of Meursault but is designated under the Volnay appellation for its red wines. Domaine des Comtes Lafon owns a substantial 3.78-hectare holding here, with vines planted between 1944 and 2002. The vineyard’s shallow, clay-rich soils over hard limestone bedrock contribute to the wine’s structure and minerality. The site’s elevation and exposure provide optimal ripening conditions, resulting in wines that balance power with finesse.

Vinification & Aging Methods

Grapes are hand-harvested and undergo meticulous sorting before fermentation. The fruit is fully destemmed and subjected to a cold soak to enhance color and aromatic extraction. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks with regular punch-downs to ensure gentle extraction. The wine is then aged for 18 to 22 months in French oak barrels, approximately one-third of which are new, allowing for integration of oak without overshadowing the fruit’s expression.

Tasting Notes

The 2020 Santenots-du-Milieu reveals a deep bouquet of wild berries, plums, and cassis, interwoven with hints of spices, grilled meats, and rose petals. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied, layered, and concentrated, with powdery structuring tannins and lively acidity. The wine is deep and tightly wound, indicating significant aging potential. Notably, Charles Curtis MW describes it as “a monumental wine, with super-ripe black cherry and currant fruit accented with rose petals, liquorice, smoke, and minerals,” highlighting its density and vibrant freshness. 

Food & Wine Pairing

This elegant Pinot Noir pairs beautifully with dishes such as roast duck, grilled lamb, or mushroom risotto. Its balanced acidity and silky tannins complement the richness of these dishes, while its aromatic complexity enhances their flavors. For cheese pairings, consider soft, bloomy-rind cheeses like Brie or Camembert to highlight the wine’s nuanced profile. The wine’s versatility makes it suitable for both elegant dinners and celebratory occasions.

Service Methods and Temperatures

Serve at 16°C to 17°C (61°F to 63°F) in large Burgundy-style glasses to fully appreciate its aromatic complexity. Decanting for 1 hour is recommended to allow the wine to open up and reveal its nuanced flavors. This preparation enhances the tasting experience, highlighting the wine’s elegance and depth.

Storage and Aging Potential

Store bottles horizontally in a cool, dark place with consistent temperature and humidity. The 2020 vintage has excellent aging potential, expected to evolve gracefully over the next 10 to 15 years. Over time, the wine will develop additional complexity, with tertiary notes such as dried fruits, forest floor, and subtle spice emerging, enhancing its depth and richness.

Grape Varietals & Percentage Used

100% Pinot Noir

ABV (Alcohol by Volume)

14.0%

Scores

• Decanter (Charles Curtis MW): 97

• Wine Advocate (William Kelley): 93-95

• Tim Atkin MW: 94

• Vinous (Neal Martin): 92-94

• Burghound (Allen Meadows): 91-94

• John Gilman (View From the Cellar): 94